08 November 2013

9th AUGUST 2004 - Laos, chaos and pay-offs

Yes, I know how lame that was, but you try rhyming -aos..!

OK: last time I wrote, I was in Northern Thailand, about to cross the border to Laos and travel down the great Mekong river for two days on the world's most uncomfortable boat...

Laos was great, although I'm not really sure why; it just blends into its neighbours in my memory. We saw a wild elephant on the banks of the great grey-green, greasy Mekong, and Luang Prabang was crazily hot but had amazing restaurants, and Mischka's questionable monk fetish reached new heights when she actually got a genuine orange-robed specimen as a pen-friend... um, what else? Oh, we did an excellent side-trip with four girls in a minibus to Phonsavan (in the west) to see the Plain of Jars, which is... well, I'll leave you to work it out.
Despite Laos not being officially involved in the 'Nam War, the Yanks still dropped staggering amounts of bombs in the Phonsavan area, basically because they couldn't be arsed to carry them home. This has resulted in thousands of personal tragedies and a landscape like the surface of the moon. It also turned me into a bit of a ghoul; I was embarrassed to find myself doing a quick limb count of everyone we passed along the road.
Laos' other salient feature is a complete absence of ATMs. Strange, true, but possibly not that interesting (unless you're there and cashless). I just thought you might like to know.

People go on about Vietnam being full of scammers, and their Cambodian neighbours seeem to despise them for this reason, but I really loved Vietnam. It's got a different vibe to the rest of the region. Although they're pretty forward-looking (and Newsweek says this, not just me!), they are also justifiably proud of having kicked America's arse in the war, and they just seem to have a strength and certainty of their own identity that contrasts with the 'roll over for the Western tourists' thing that Thailand has going on. Laos is just very poor and backward, which makes it a lovely place to visit but, sadly, not to live.

Hanoi was quaintly beautiful, with tree-lined, sun-dappled streets and a million billion motorbikes which all honk more or less continually. It was so mental I just couldn't resist hiring a scooter (against the advice of the hotel and the Lonely Planet) and had a lovely day literally playing in the traffic! Sadly, I didn't realise you aren't supposed to leave them out overnight, and woke to find the police had impounded the damn thing and I had to pay a fat bribe to Chief Wiggum's oily-haired Vietnamese double to get it back. Thanks to the almighty pound, though, it only worked out at seven squid. Hurrah!

We just didn't have time to get off the beaten backpacking track, so our next stop was Hoi An, famous for its bespoke clothing. A significant percentage of Next's hardback Directory sales must be to these tailors, as they all have copies and you can just choose whatever you like to have made. Visiting this place with three other girls was a bad idea, as we went into a collective feeding frenzy and staggered out of town three days later having seen nothing except the inside of shops. Oops.

Carrying on south, we did a bit of diving and wallowed in evil-smelling mud in Nha Trang, where I spent an afternoon scooting off alone to a beach up the coast. I rode under massed grey clouds, through paddy fields turned a luminous yellow-green by the late, low sun, past staring peasants in coolie hats and indifferent, head-tossing buffaloes... and returned happy, only slightly sunburnt, and with a profound hatred of bus drivers in general and air horns in particular. It was just beautiful, one of those memories that'll sustain me when I'm back behind a desk, I hope.

We finally got to Saigon, where we only had time to visit the American War Remnants museum and the Vietcong tunnels at Cu Chi. The former used to be called the American War Crimes Museum, and frankly, that was a much more appropriate name. From the highest-ranking people involved (Nixon carrying on the war just because he didn't want to be the first American president to lose one) to the lowest (grinning GIs holding up severed heads for the camera, piles of little fat dead babies after the massacre at My Lai), it was a catalogue of unpunished cruelty and ongoing suffering; the birth deformities still caused by dropped chemicals alone were enough to haunt your dreams.
...OK, I feel a rant coming on, so I'll skip the tunnels as it'll only set me off again... I did skip actually climbing through the tunnels anyway, as the tiny space immediately became too much for me. And this is after they've been widened quite a bit in order to allow what our guide gleefully kept referring to as our 'fat Western arses' through... God knows how the Vietcong didn't all pass out from claustrophobia.

After those two sobering trips, we almost immediately found ourselves in Cambodia, scene of Pol Pot's grand insanity. We visited just one of the many 'killing fields', at Choeung Ek near Phnom Penh, and the prison that supplied them, notorious Tuol Sleng, where terrible tortures were perpetrated.

But it's actually impossible to fully comprehend tragedy on such a huge scale, for me at least. The rows of cracked skulls at Choeung Ek, the rows of living dead staring out of photographs at Tuol Sleng - I couldn't really get my head round it. It was the little details that touch your heart; the young guide telling me he could only work at the Killing Fields for a few days at a time before being overwhelmed by sadness, the cheerful, softly-spoken taxi driver still keeping the little tin that used to hold his family's starvation rice ration, so as never to forget.

Thank god, the final stop was Angkor Wat, a vast ruined city of temples in the forest near the pleasingly-named town of Siem Reap. There were no echoes of past tragedies here, just tumbledown castles and huge stone faces carved into pillars and giant trees growing up through temples where ancient kings once prayed. It reminded me of the Narnia stories, and Atlantis, and Eldorado, and the whole thing was so photogenic that you'd all be advised to invent urgent appointments if I ever mention showing you the pictures.

Finally, it was a mad dash to Bangkok to send loads of stuff home and get ready to fly to Hong Kong. Our last night was a big goodbye to most of our travelling companions and left me with the worst hangover I've had since Christmas Eve, but we made our plane. We also brought along Monica, our little fox-coloured Italian, who made a snap decision to come and see China with us.

So now there's three of us to be bewildered by the language and startled by the flying greenies and repulsed by the stench of public toilets with waist-high partitions and no doors (yes, really). China's going to be a challenge, but I think I've gone on enough already, so I'll let you know how we're doing in a couple of weeks.

Just one last thing (honestly) - I haven't had a chance to email much recently, and may not for a while - it's been a struggle finding Internet access and will likely get worse. So sorry if I owe you a reply... but all too soon I'll have loads of time to reply :o(  - in between looking for jobs, of course!

PS I'm not joking about the greenies. Old and young, male and female - there seems to be an ongoing national competition to see who can hawk up the loudest, fattest green oyster, and charmingly, one of my neighbours at a nearby terminal has just spat out a prize entry. Nice.

No comments: