The Enchanted Archipelago

I think anyone, and especially anyone who's ever read My Family And Other Animals, will understand what I mean when I say that there's a ring of enchantment and exploration and Eden in the word 'archipelago'. It makes me think of tiny palm-fringed islands, separated from bigger, birdsong-loud but still untouched shores, by secret channels and water so clear you can see the white sand lying full fathoms five.

As such a paradise really does exist near here, and as Dan was over for my birthday, we decided to splash out a bit and go to Fernando de Noronha, an archipelago an hour's flight out into the ocean which is 'visited by thousands of dolphins every morning', acording to a guidebook I read much later. It's renowned for its diving and marine life, and for a natural beauty sustained at least partly by a daily 'eco-tax' for all visiting tourists.

It's not easy to get to, and I had to swallow my traveller's snobbishness and buy a four-day package, which put us in a silly mood from the start by turning out to include a whole set of bright-yellow-and-white travel gear; weekend bags, passport wallets and so on. I'd like to show you the photo of us posing proudly by the plane with them, but I look hideous in it, so you'll have to be content with this one of the soap provided at the pousada, which pleased us mightily.



But it wasn't all sniggering over childish innuendoes. In our four days, we snorkelled, went on a boat trip, dived and, er, drank, and here are the results.

Diving down into the strange, silent world of underwater, you're constantly looking around, fascinated but wary of what might appear out of the murky gloom at the limits of your vision. Things aren't always obvious at first, but oh, what a thrill when you catch sight of something like this:



...and see it gliding and skimming over invisible swells and currents with effortless grace...





Turtles are far easier to spot, but still wonderful to see actually there in the sea, in their home rather than two-dimensionally on a flickering square in your living room…



Especially when they start going all Saturday Night Fever on you…



However, island life isn't all living it up int the sea and on the beach; it has its dangers too. Apart from the old staple, going snorkelling and forgetting your sunscreen:



…there's the siren call of caipirinhas, which can make you decide that pretending to be the French soldiers out of Monty Python is a good idea:



…get you speared by an angry swordfish:



…or even turned into a singing mermaid. The guide books don't warn you about this.



Such hazards aside, however, it was fantastic. I never thought turning thirtysoddingtwo could be so much fun.